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Recipes
C6 Clay Body - from Val Cushing:
EPK Kaolin 35
Tile 6 Kaolin 15
Nepheline Syenite 23
Flint 22
XX Sagger Ball Clay 5
Bentonite 3
Flashing slip:
7 parts Tile #6, 2 parts Grollege and
1 part Nepheline Syenite
For Blue/Black Slip, I add a tablespoon of
mazzerine blue stain to a quart of
flashing slip
Base Recipes-
used with a large variety of colorants
Hamada Base Revised Again:
Custer Feldspar 53
Whiting 9
Zinc Oxide 9
Barium Carbonate 16
Ball Clay 2
Kona F-4 8
Alec's Base revised from 1993:
Kona F-4 11
Nepheline Syenite 21
Gerstley Borate 12
Whiting 4
Wollastonite 8
Fritt 3124 6
EPK Kaolin 10
Flint 40
Chartruse:
Neph Sy 120
Lithium Carbonate 65
Whiting 15
Barium Carb 115
Ball clay 15
Flint 155
Fritt 3124 50
Chrome OX 2.5
(two pint five)
Bobby Silvermans Blue Base:
K-200 Feldspar 45
Whiting 7
EPK Kaolin 6
Flint 7
Barium Carbonate 35
Bentonite 2
Lucas Honey Glaze:
Custer Feldspar 30
Whiting 75
Ball Clay 75
Red Iron Oxide 45
Flint 75
Fake Ash Glaze Revised:
Custer Feldspar 17
Barium Carbonate 9
Dolomite 9
Whiting 26
Ball Clay Art Center 12
Flint 18
Kona F-4 10
Randys Base Revised:
Flint 19
Ball Clay 12
Whiting 10
Zircopax 9
Dolomite 6
Barium Carbonate 12
Custer Feldspar 25
Kona F-4 12
Fritt 3124 15
Gerstley Borate 10
Bentonite 2
Some Bright Green Glaze:
Custer Feldspar 45
Whiting 7
Ball Clay 13
Strontium 35
Zinc Oxide 10
Water Blue Base
Gerstley Borate 6
EPK Kaolin 7
Fritt 3110 77
Flint 10
Bentonite 3
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alchemy
The following clay, glazes and slips have come to work for
me over time. Many of these glazes are common in the ceramic world:
it's how you use them that make them work. Best of luck with your
endeavors.
(an introduction)
(categories of glazing)
(my process)
(a note on recipes)
I am including this page as these glazes were all given to me freely,
and I am often asked for the recipes at workshops and lectures.
I had been from the one dunk school of pottery glazing when
I entered graduate school. During my second year, I fell off
my bicycle into an irrigation ditch and broke my wrist. That
pretty much took me out of making work for the rest of the semester.
I did have a stack of bisqueware in my studio and I spent the
rest of the spring decorating, glazing and re-glazing this wear.
When I went to Nova Scotia College of Art and Design for
a semester, I very much wanted to combine the versatility of
color from Majolica with the density and strength of porcelain.
Alec Karros was working at the mid-range temperature in Boulder
with colors that I had never seen before. I began working with
his glazes, though now I had to figure out how to put all these
colors together.
I had a wonderful Art Theory lecture class with George Woodman:
George is an art theorist, wonderful painter, and a very sharp
dresser. During class I took notes on his clothing, and then
went down to the studio to glaze my pots accordingly: tan pants
with a royal blue tee-shirt over a green button up and gray
shoes, turned into tan flashing slip, gray on the foot of the
pot, royal blue on the inside of the pot or spout or handle
and patterned in different shades of green.
We put all kinds of colors and textures together when we
get dressed every morning, and when it comes to glazing, I
think this is a good place to start. (return
to top)
I put glazes into a few different categories to help me better
understand them and their content.
First is a "paint chip glaze:" a glaze of straight color. It's
extremely reliable and what you see is what you get, over and
over again.
Second is a "historical glaze:" a glaze with strong historical
ties. The glaze itself can become the content in the work.
Third is the "phenomena glaze:" a glaze that changes when it
is fired. From it, you gain a sense that the material has had
an experience of firing or time passage. (return
to top)
I work with mid-range porcelain, bisque fire to cone 08 and glaze
fire in a soda kiln to cone 6. Pretty much everything that I make
starts on the wheel, and then is altered to some degree. I use a
shimpo RK-2 that I bought in high school with my baby sitting money
and had in my room between my bunk bed and dresser.
I fire in a soda kiln in a neutral to clean atmosphere, and
spray about 3 pounds of soda ash mixed with 2 gallons of water
when cone 5 gets soft. (return to top)
These recipes have been collected from all over, but I want to
especially that all the folks at Nova Scotia College of Art and Design:
Walter Ostrom, Doug Banford, Joan Berneau, in addition, Alec Karros,
and Chloe Rizzo.
After a lot of testing, I still use Barium Carbonate in some
of my glazes. I do not use it on any surfaces that come in contact
with food.
I also use gold and platinum lustre and always wear gloves,
use a respirator with new filters, and a good ventilation system.
I do not use Barium, Manganese, Vanadium Pentoxide, or Strontium
on the insides of any pots. Please be responsible about how you
use these glazes. (return to top)
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